Lisbon in December: a festive walk to see the lights of Lisbon
Holiday Lights and Christmas Markets: Lisbon in December
I’m a December baby. My birthday has always felt extra special because it seemed to be part of the kickoff to the festive holiday season. My mother would save decorating for Christmas until my birthday which made the magical twinkle of holiday lights feel like my celebration was included and extended to the new year! Familiar, meaningful decorations, tastefully organized and artistically displayed, create a magical festive feeling.
It’s no surprise, then, that this attention to decorative detail has left me a bit of a critic of poorly done Christmas lights. You know, the lame string with a mismatch of coloured bulbs, the random stringing together of a garish assortment of lights, or the haphazard installation of every light, outdoor ornament and inflatable figure known to mankind. The latter is something I have semi-affectionately termed “festive vomit”: too much, too garish, too chaotic, too over the top. I know some people love the excess, but I prefer lights and decorations that leave me with a sense of awe.
Every year I seek out an opportunity to take in some lights…whether in my neighbourhood or other Island communities. When booking an extended trip to Portugal over the fall months, I was adamant that our return flight be AFTER my birthday. I was eager to experience the holiday build-up in Europe and planned a night of December enchantment for my big day. The holiday lights and Christmas markets of Lisbon in December were on my mind!
Christmas markets are a wonder in Europe and date back to medieval times. While the most visited and probably the most traditionally festive markets are in Germany, France, Austria, and neighbouring countries, the holiday season is celebrated uniquely in every country!
Lisbon is a beautiful city any time of year, with lots to see and do. The weeks leading up to Christmas are, indeed, magical all around Portugal. Being in Lisbon for 4 weeks, we watched the progress of the extravagant decorations and the hanging of 2.1 million LED bulbs. Even before any official light-up, the streets were stunning and Christmas markets were open daily with local artisans, lots of food and fun for families.
There are walking tours, double-decker bus routes, and tuk-tuk tours available to move around the city quickly and view all the displays. Get Your Guide is where I’d start to research what fun things you can do in Lisbon.
For this night, we chose to just go out and wander by foot! I’d already been to all the locations on the route in the daytime or before the holiday lights were live - so for my birthday evening I intended to take it slow and take it all in!
Festive Walking Route of Lisbon in December
Follow the map to see the route! There isn’t a particular order - if you are in Lisbon in December, design your walk from your accommodations. This one is pretty long, so you may consider splitting the journey into two. Enjoy the Baixa and Chiado districts one evening and Parque Eduardo VII and Avenida da Liberdade another. Everything is free, but be prepared to purchase some delicious holiday treats along the way!
Parque Eduardo VII
Hop the metro to Parque station to begin the journey dazzled by Wonderland Lisboa.
Parque Eduardo VII is a stunning and elegant park that stretches uphill to a marvellous view over the city and riverfront. The park is transformed into Wonderland Lisboa (aptly named) Christmas fair that includes a Ferris wheel, a skating rink, and rows of stalls filled with sweet treats. The skating rink looks oddly out of place in the mild Portuguese temperatures and I later discovered that it is an “ecological” or synthetic rink which consumes no water or energy.
Wonderland Lisboa is a magnet for young families. Upbeat Christmas music fills the air and dances with the smoke of roasted chestnuts and laughter. You can see from the pictures that our night of lights was raining lightly which didn’t dampen anyone’s enjoyment!
At the bottom of the Parque hill is the Marques De Pombal Square, a massive statue in a busy roundabout dedicated to a noted Lisboa statesman from the 1700s. The roundabout is decorated and if you take the time to cross all 5 lanes of traffic you will discover an escape from the crowds of Wonderland Lisboa. It feels almost serene being alone, circled by busy traffic, with Christmas carols and family laughter in the distance.
Avenida da Liberdade
Stroll down the spectacular avenue that runs from the square for a kilometre on Avenida da Liberdade under the rows of Jacaranda trees. In December you won’t see their beautiful purple blossoms, but the lights that hang from their majestic limbs are ethereal. Fancy high-end shops line the intricately tiled avenue and are gussied up with creative holiday decor!
Christmas Markets
Discover the Christmas markets at Rossio Square and/or nearby Praça da Figueira.
Both happened to be very close to our accommodation, so my husband and I visited them frequently. We tried to stop by during quiet times to admire the regional products and to Christmas shop.
Rossio Square (also known as Praça Dom Pedro IV) is large. At one end find the sparkly Queen Maria National Theatre and at the other ogle at the stunning mermaid fountain. The Christmas market has traditional wooden stalls filled with handicrafts and food. Santa is a regular visitor along with (surprisingly to me) Mini Mouse. Sample a to-die-for pork sandwich, pastel de nata, and a delicious hot mulled wine.
If you want more market, don’t fill up on all the good food but stroll through a little twisty pedestrian lane past my favourite burnt church (Igreja São Domingos Lisbon) for a detour to Praça da Figueira. Here is another delightful Christmas market full of mostly food vendors. The charming stalls with cookies, nuts, dried fruit and chocolates are as beautiful as they are tasty! There is a covered eating area where friends and families meet, eat, drink, and listen to live music.
Chiado Neighbourhood
Crisscross through the Baixa towards Chiado, a neighbourhood of funky restaurants and trendy stores. Head to Amazens do Chiado, a shopping center famous for its extravagant Christmas outdoor display. (Sorry no photos - I took a very bad video. But trust me it is elegant!) I’m not a mall shopper, so we stayed outside and followed the beautiful street lights up the hill, past an outdoor nativity scene to the small but magical Praça Luis de Camoes. This popular square is packed with lights, more food, and live music. We ordered some ginja in chocolate cups and sat inside the glittering Christmas ball to toast the season (and happy birthday to me)! Ginja (or Ginjinha) is a yummy sour cherry Portuguese liquor.
Feliz Natal and feliz aniversário!
Praça do Comércio
The final walk is to gorgeous Arco da Rua Augusta towards the grande finale - Praça do Comércio. This magnificent plaza is a hive of activity and boasts the largest Christmas tree I’ve ever seen and entered!
Praça do Comércio is stunning day and night. Three sides of the square are defined by dramatic yellow buildings with elegant arches distinctive of the Marques De Pombal era of the 1700s. The south side of the square looks over the Tejo River. This expansive space holds so much history - before the great earthquake of 1755 it was where the royal residence was located; after the square became the commercial epicenter of Lisbon.
Planning a trip to Lisbon in December?
The weather in December is typically between 14 and 16 C (57 F) during the day. But when the sun is out in early December, you’ll be taking off your layers with temperatures around 19 C (66F). It certainly doesn’t rain all the time but it is a rainier month - so pack a jacket and umbrella. Compared to Canada, the temperatures are balmy in Lisbon in early December. But be prepared for locals to be fully bundled up. As I stripped off layers, they donned puffy coats, scarves, and mittens!
I am fully confident that you will not be exposed to lame lights or ‘festive vomit’ in Lisbon or exploring any of the other great cities of Europe during the holiday season. Not that I truly had any doubts, but I was happy to check things out for you! 😉
I hope this article helps you to plan your next adventure! Looking for more guidance?
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